You don't have to be a mechanic to keep your outboard motor tuned up. Imagine being on the lake and the weather turns bad quickly, you go to start your motor and it just turns over and over and over but never starts. That is a really bad feeling and I'm sure some of you have been there too.
By keeping your outboard tuned as much as possible you can minimize mishaps (to say the least) such as these. There are some very basic things you yourself can do with your motor. Now for those of you who do not feel comfortable with any types of combustible engines then I would recommend finding a reliable mechanic you can put your trust in. I highly recommend that you have your outboard checked or even serviced at least once a year. The primetime to have a mechanic check your outboard would be the start of your fishing season.
 
MOTOR FLUSHING:
Always remember to flush your motor after every usage. This doesn't just apply to those of you with saltwater engines but freshwater as well. The reason being is due to mud, sand, grass, etc. You want to always keep the water chambers that run throughout the inside of your engine clean of any debris and dirt. All you need for this process is a motor flush kit. These are fairly cheap and can be purchased just about anywhere even the simplest boating items are sold. They look like rabbit ears with cups on the end of each side with a universal connector that hooks to your garden hose. Simply attach to the bottom of your outboard covering the intake vents on the foot of your motor. Turn the water on and run the engine and water will begin pumping throughout the engine.
Another thing I highly recommend is to every now and again back flush your motor. Especially whenever you know you ran through some mud, sand, grass, etc. All outboard engines have a back flush connector where you may connect a standard garden hose up to. If not check your manual or consort with your mechanic as you may need to purchase a converter that will allow you to connect to the motors back flush connector.
This brings me to another good point. Whenever you start your motor always check to make sure the water pump is functioning and water is being dispersed from the engine at a high speed of rate. You always may want to test the water temperature. The water should be warm and not scalding hot. Personally I've gotten into the habit of checking to make sure water is being dispersed. If not then that tells me something is up which usually means the intake on the foot of your motor is clogged. If you can unclog the intake I highly recommend doing so. You don't want to run your outboard with no water flowing through the engine. Most of us know what this means, overheating of the engine.
SPARK PLUGS:
Some boaters go forever on the same set of plugs that came with the motor when purchased. Me personally I change the plugs before the start of every season. As cheap as plugs are and the small amount of time it takes to change them out its worth it. Over time plugs file out resulting in performance loss of engine as well as slightly decreasing gas mileage. From your local outboard dealer you should be able to purchase the plugs you need. Also don't forget to ask them for the "gap setting" of which the plugs should be set at. This is a very important factor to know because from the factor they may not be set correctly. If you do not already have a "gap setter" for spark plugs I recommend purchasing one, they are only a few bucks. Also you may want to invest in a spark plug socket that fits your socket wrench. You never want to attempt to take the plugs out of your engine with anything but the correct fitting socket. With the most outboards the plugs are facing out the back of the engine block and are easy to access. Simply pop off the plug wires and CAREFULLY remove the plugs. After you have applied the correct gap setting to the plugs CAREFULLY screw the plugs in. I stress the word CAREFULLY here because all it takes is to cross-thread when putting the new plugs in and you have just upped the cost of this simple and cheap maintenance task. You will then need to have a machinist or mechanic "tap" and "thread" the spark plug hole on the head. You definitely don't want this to happen to you so CAREFULLY screw the plugs back into the motor.
CARBUERATORS:
Keeping your carbs cleaned out and tuned are extremely important. A simple task that you can accomplish even if you are not savvy enough to rebuild your carbs would be to clean them out with carb cleaner. Follow the instructions in detail as well as thoroughly. Now if you're up to and have a "fallback plan" then go for it and rebuild your own carbs. You can purchase carb rebuild kits from your local marine dealer. While there ask any and all questions about the rebuild. You may want to also purchase a service manual for your outboard. BACKUP PLAN: While you are there check to make sure that it is ok to bring the carbs in if you get into rebuilding and run into some problems. Also make sure they are certified Mercury, Bombardier, Yamaha, etc. dealers.
FUEL FILTER / FUEL LINES:
Every now and again check your fuel filter to make sure it is free of any debris, dirt, clogs, etc. With most outboards it is a small, semi-clear container that sits on the side of your engine crankcase. The clamps simply squeeze together with pliers for removal from the hoses. Drain the fuel out of the container and if you have and air compressor or even canned air you can clean out the fuel filter. If need be purchase one from your local marine dealer. Also check your fuel lines while we you are there for any cracks, bends, etc.
STORAGE OF OUTBOARD:
Before storing your boat for your non-boating season, make sure to drop some stabilizer in the gas tank such as "STA-BIL". This additive is quite cheap and well worth it. This will keep your fuel from turning to varnish practically. For those of you who drain the fuel tanks, fuel lines, and the outboard motor itself you may want to consider a different method. Even if you drain the fuel from the tank, lines, and motor some fuel will still remain. It is impossible to remove every drop of fuel from this equation. So it is recommended that you leave whatever fuel you have in place and simply add a stabilizer. This way you can be sure that the remaining fuel will not gum up the works.
GREASE FITTINGS:
If you don't already have one you may want to purchase a grease gun and cartridges. Keep the grease fittings located on your motor greased at all times. Without lubrication joints wear down and eventually break. So always keep your fittings greased.
LOWER UNIT:
The lower unit of your outboard is also a vital piece of the pie. Check to make sure there is an adequate amount of lower unit oil in the foot of your motor. While you are checking, make sure the color of the oil is clear and has consistency to it. If the oil is broken down, discolored, or you can plainly see a mixture of water within then have it serviced as there may be a leak. These gears are spinning at an extreme high rate when in use so lubrication here is very important. This is basically a "transmission" for your outboard.
 
The most expensive part on the entire boat itself is always going to be your outboard engine. So look at it as "protecting your investment". The last thing you want to do is fork over a huge amount of cash for a new motor and just have your boat sitting there of no use. So I recommend purchasing the service manual for your outboard and perusing through it to see what you feel comfortable with doing. By keeping your outboard tuned to perfection and simply taking good care, it should last you a long time.

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